陈颖西部旅行图记（三）“寺院的田园”
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<DIV> 青海塔尔寺是一个让人心静的地方。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺，顾名思义“先有塔后有寺”。先有的莲花聚宝塔是为纪念藏传佛教格鲁派黄教创始人，也是一世班禅、一世达赖的老师宗喀巴大师而修建。传说母亲在这里生下宗喀巴，剪断脐带时，一滴血滴在地上，竟然就长出了菩提树，而树上的十万片叶子中每片上都现出一尊狮子吼佛像。后来母亲在菩提树的位置修建莲花聚宝塔，到现在塔内的菩提树还长生不老。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺始建于公元1379年，离现在已经有600多年历史了。先有一座大银塔，后来扩建为寺，由此我喜欢塔尔寺的风格：因为塔尔寺依山势舒缓地上下起伏，由大金瓦寺、小金瓦寺、小花寺、大经堂、大厨房、 九间殿、大拉浪、如意宝塔、太平塔、菩提塔、过门塔等大小建筑组成，共有1000多个院落，4500多间殿宇，分别散落在莲花山的一沟两面坡上，殿宇院落高低起伏，交相辉映，感觉象走进了一个寺院的大庄园，我以为这便是“寺院的田园”。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺距离西宁不过26公里，作为藏区黄教六大寺院之一，而格外尊贵。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺是宗喀巴大师的诞生地，可是宗喀巴大师并没有在这里久留。16岁宗喀巴就离开这里去了西藏， 24岁获得四明博士学位；后来宗喀巴游学四方，进行宗教改革，创立了格鲁派。对藏传佛教而言，宗喀巴改革宗教的意义在于，奠定了一套对佛教更加系统，全面、合理而行之有效的发展构架。如在寺庙组织架构、僧人行为准则，习经制度等方面的规范化。这些对当时的萨迦、宁玛和噶举等都有较大的影响。所以格鲁派至今在藏区的影响最大。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺的美是难以言说的。建筑艺术，或者“艺术三绝”（酥油花、壁画和堆绣）只是看得到的东西，看不到的是红色枷萨包裹着的灵魂，一扣三拜的虔诚，以及烟雾袅袅升起带来的平静。塔尔寺会是你的精神家园吗？走进去，也许你就知道了。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺怎么去？从西宁市出发，乘公交车到西门，在体育场附近打辆夏利，20/车，或者在西门体育馆东侧院乘坐长途客车及中巴，一人5元车票。利用3-4个小时参观塔尔寺，塔儿寺下午6:30关门，门票30。</DIV>
<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/2005952363322154.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/2005952363322154.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></DIV>
<DIV> 我在如来宝塔前留影。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔尔寺广场内矗立着八座如来宝塔，以赞颂释迦牟尼一生八大功德。</DIV>
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<DIV> 塔建于1776年。这八个塔从东到西是：莲聚塔（纪念释迦牟尼降生时行走七步，步步开一朵莲花）；菩提塔（纪念释迦牟尼修行成正觉）；四谛塔（纪念释迦牟尼初转四谛法轮）；神变塔（纪念释迦牟尼降伏外道时的种种奇迹）；降凡塔（纪念释迦牟尼从天堂返回人间）；息诤塔（纪念释迦牟尼劝息诸比丘的争端）；胜利塔（纪念释迦牟尼战胜一切魔鬼）；涅磐塔（纪念释迦牟尼入涅磐，不生不灭）。如来八塔每个塔底周长九点四米，底座面积五点七平方米。 </DIV>
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<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593438586.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593438586.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></DIV>
<DIV> 塔尔寺的金顶</DIV>
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<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593478932.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593478932.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></DIV>
<DIV> 塔尔寺的主殿是大金瓦寺，面积约450平方米。塔尔寺最宏伟的建筑是大经堂。这是一座藏式平顶建筑，面积达1981平方米。殿内矗立着 108根大柱子，柱子上部都雕有优美的图案，外裹彩色毛毯，并缀以各 色刺绣飘带、幢、幡等。上千尊小七精致的铜质镏金佛像置于四壁的神 龛中。经堂内铺蒲团上各个，可供2000多喇嘛集体诵经之用。[br]</DIV>
<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593464717.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593464717.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></DIV>
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<DIV> 八座如来宝塔连成一线</DIV>
<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593410286.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593410286.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></DIV>
<DIV> 塔尔寺的院落</DIV>
<DIV><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593441384.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2005-9/20059522593441384.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />[br] 塔尔寺的殿宇</DIV></DIV>[br]